Selecting the Right Color

No matter what the thickness of your grout, it will be visible so you want to choose a shade of grout that will compliment your tile and your décor. You can get grout in all sorts of colors now, so you can try to match the color of your tile, so it blends in more or you can choose a contrasting shade the will emphasize the spacing between each tile.

Remember that white and lighter shades of grout will show dirt and stains more than darker colors. Grout color can also change over time so you’ll want to keep that in mind when selecting a shade for your new floor.

Purchase the Correct Tools

Just as with any home improvement project, having the right tools is important if you want to complete the project effectively. You should purchase a good quality grout to ensure that it stands up over time.  You will need some kind of tool to apply the grout – a palette knife or spatula or trowel will decrease the mess on the floor and on you.

Using these tools will also help you keep the grout level. You don’t want the grout to be too much lower or higher than the level of the tiles. You will also need a sponge or cloth and a bucket to remove any excess.

Spacing

Spacing the tiles and the grout is a tricky business, but you need to be patient and take your time to ensure that your tiles look evenly spaced out. You might want to take the time to layout your tiles and ensure the correct spacing before even gluing them in place. You will need to work somewhat quickly once the glue is down, so planning ahead like this can save a lot of stress and aggravation later.

Once you have your tiles and know the size, you’ll want to figure out how much grout you want to have showing. When it comes to actually laying down your tile, you can purchase spacers at your local home improvement or hardware store. These will help you keep the tiles a specific distance apart and ensure a consistent width of grout all around the tiles.

You need to make sure that your tiles are in the correct spot before you put the grout down. The grout only fills the spaces between the tiles, so if you find that the grout lines are uneven it is the result of the tiles being crooked, not the grout itself.

Sealer

To protect grout, you need to apply a sealer.  This sealer will protect the grout from damage and stains.  You can purchase these sealers at your local home store or at a specialty tile store.  It may take some time to apply this sealant, because you have to go over each grout line without getting any on the tile, but it will really help protect your grout from all sorts of harm.  Your grout will probably show age quicker than the tiles themselves, so you want to do everything you can to protect your grout right from the start.

Maintenance

You need to clean and maintain your grout, just as you do the tile itself.  In fact, you probably need to pay more attention to the grout since over time it will build up dirt faster than the tile surface.  If your grout is not perfectly level with your tile, your mop may miss some of the dirt and stains and cracks or holes in the grout can also hide bits of dirt and bacteria.

Every once and awhile, you should carefully clear all of the grout lines to ensure you remove any hidden dirt and stains that might be missed during your usual cleanings.  Over time you may even want to apply more sealer since it can be worn down by high traffic and scrubbing.

Signs that your home needs to be stabilized include the following:

Horizontal cracks in the walls

Step cracks in block or brick foundation

Uneven floors, windows or doors not working properly

Types of pier system

One pier system used is called the helical pier system, and it involves the following installation steps:

A torque anchor is screwed in to the stable subsoil.  This is done until then torque indicates that the necessary load capacity had been achieved.

Adjustable brackets then are attached to the foundation walls. These brackets are connected to the screw anchors.  The screw anchors are connected to the foundation.

The weight of the home shifts to the screw anchors.  This stops further movement, because foundation walls and floors are retained.

This system contrasts with other foundation strengthening methods which use the weight of the home to force the pipes in the ground.  Other methods have a tendency to negatively affect walkways and landscaping.

Another helical pier system uses similar principals as the foundation system with the torque anchors described above. One of the only different it has a weaving pipe system. These interwoven pipe system creates added strength for the foundation, even more so than the pier system above.

A third kind of pier system is the called the magnum steel push method. Each unit looks like something that is a cross between a pogo stick and a shock absorber for a car.  The only difference is, this magnum steel system holds over 30 tons. This is one of the best support systems ever made.  This steel push system powered by hydraulics is fairly easy to install.  It is well worth the effort, because it is sure to prevent a home from sinking.

Another very effective pier system is a disaster resistant pier system.  This one helps sustain a home in the case of an earthquake. It also anchors the house in the event of high winds, frost heaves, and floods. This system consists of stout members connecting to a slab, grade beams or array of pads. A secondary system called a seismic isolator works in conjunction with the earthquake resistant system. This helps prevent the house from dropping too low to the ground.  These two systems working together are very cost-effective, and also save lives.

The entire above mentioned pier systems are far more supportive than a concrete slab system.  The different is in the anchors.  The only thing a concrete slab is supported by is poles, and foundation walls. It offers very little support, and the weigh of the house shifts.

Again, as mentioned earlier, signs that a house needs a more stable foundation are cracks in the floors, walls or ceilings. On the contrary, the pier systems offer additional support to the home without damaging any floor, walls or ceilings.

It is up to you to decide for yourself which system is better, the concrete slab system one of the pier systems. However, if you know anything about concrete slab systems you will know that it consists of supportive posts and beams. Moreover, it does not offer the same anchoring and support that the pier systems offer.  Many houses have been sunk or torn off in various disasters such as an earthquake or tornado.

Not only that, but even during fair weather conditions houses on concrete slabs have sunk.  It only happens after a long period of time if there is no disaster that hits. However, imagine if you could live to see what a home on a concrete foundation looks like in a hundred years.  Most likely it would not hold up to one of the more modern pier systems.

Not only that, but the home with the concrete slab is more likely to be condemned, versus the home with one of the many pier systems available.

Therefore, you should consider the benefits of a pier system and check into the possibility of installing one to protect your family and your home, and your future. It is up to you to find out the truth for yourself. You and your family’s lives depend on it.

Carpet is a good choice because it is warm and soft, particularly on children, when crawling or playing on the floor.  Carpet is much quieter than other flooring options, particularly hard wood surfaces.  Carpeting is also an economical option because the product itself and installation fees are much lower than other flooring types.

Here is an overview of the main carpet types of the market today:

Saxony Saxony carpet

It is smooth and has a cut-pile surface. It is used mainly in traditional or formal rooms.

Textured Saxony or Shag

This type of carpet has a more relaxed appearance and is very popular for families.  The textured surface of this type helps to hide footprints, which means less upkeep for you.

Velvet

As the name might imply, this is a type appropriate for very formal and elegant rooms.  It has a very fine sheared surface.  Because of its suitability to formal rooms and the upkeep required, this is not as popular an option as other carpet types.

Frieze

This kind of carpet is extremely durable, so it is perfect for rooms that see a lot of activity.  It has a textured almost knobby appearance, which makes it a less popular option even though it does stand up well to wear.

Cut and Loop (or Random-Sheared)

Cut and loop has a very distinctive appearance with cuts and loops of different sizes on the surface.  It works in a variety of rooms since the multi-colors and multi-layers help hide traffic and stains.

Level loop and Multi-Level Loop

These two types of carpets are made up of loops (with level loop, all the loops are level, whereas with multi-loop there are different levels of loops).  Both of these are very durable and stand up well in high traffic areas.  They have a casual rather than elegant appearance.

Once you’ve decided on the type of carpet you want to put in, you need to keep a few other things in mind.

Things to remember when choosing the carpet:

You will need to take into consideration the different types of carpet fibers nylon, olefin, polyester, acrylic and wool.  Nylon is the most popular of these fibers because of cost and its ability to hide wear and stains. The other types of fibers have other benefits, but there is nothing that can match the durability and brilliant coloring of nylon fibers.

Knowing about yarn twists will also come in handy.  With carpet, the rule is the tighter the yarn twist is the better.  You want to look for a carpet with a shorter nap.  The longer the nap the more difficult it is for the carpet to be crush resistant.  Your carpet will look newer longer if you choose one with a shorter nap.  The stitches per inch also contribute to the crush resistance of a carpet.

Try to choose a carpet that has more yarn or stitches per inch to increase your carpet’s matt and crush resistance.  If you are buying a looped carpet, then you need to look at the density of the loop and the amount of space right in the middle of the loop, because the tighter the loop, the better the wear will be.

Once you’ve decided on the type of carpet (taking into consideration the fibers, nap and yarn twist), you’ll need to pick a pattern and a color. There are many, many options out there nowadays.  You may want to consider a solid, neutral color that will go with many wall and furnishing colors and patterns.  You don’t want to have to change your carpet every time you redecorate, so try to select something that is versatile.

To help keep your carpet looking new, there are some basic maintenance steps to follow.  You want to vacuum regularly and remove carpet stains as soon as you notice them.  The longer a stain sits, the most difficult it is to remove.  You can also practice some preventative measures (like using mats and runners in high traffic entry ways) to reduce the wear on your carpet.

Here are some steps for hanging wallpaper:

The first step is to choose wallpaper. Today there are all sorts of wallpapers out there for you to choose. If you are new to wallpaper hanging, you may want to choose a pattern with little or no matching. This will make things easier for you and may save you some money on the amount of paper you need since an intricate match often leads to more paper wastage (and thus more money wastage).

When thinking about choosing wallpaper, you want to think about what sort of room it is being used in and what it might come into contact with. For example, vinyl-coated wallpaper is suitable for a kitchen and bathroom because it has a higher tolerance for grease and moisture. On the other hand a coated fabric covering makes more sense for living rooms and bedrooms because it is more breathable and has a lower moisture tolerance.

You will need to make sure you measure your room carefully, so you order the right amount of wallpaper. You don’t want to get halfway through your room and then realize you don’t have enough. There are online tools that will help you calculate how many rolls you might need or you can consult with someone at your local home or decorating store.

Now that you’ve selected your wallpaper, you want to make sure that you have the right tools. You should have a knife and scissors for trimming the paper. You should also have a measuring tape or a ruler. Sponges and a seam roller are really important because they help you remove bubbles from the paper before it dries. A ladder, buckets, seam sealer (or vinyl adhesive) are also useful to have on hand.

Before you hang the wallpaper, you should make sure that your surface is properly prepared. Start by removing outlet and light switch plates. Clean the surface to remove any grease or stains. You should also try to fill any holes and repair imperfections in the wall’s surface. All of this preparation will help you in the long run.

You will need to pick a spot to begin hanging the wallpaper. Two things should be taken into consideration when picking this spot the layout of the room and the pattern of the wallpaper. You want to select a shorter space if possible so any mismatch will be inconspicuous. Usually a door or a window is a good place to start – especially a corner behind a door.

Once you’ve picked a spot, you’ll want to draw something known as a plumb line. This is a straight vertical line that you will line up your first strip of wallpaper with. Making this plumb line will ensure that your paper is straight right from the start.

Now it’s time to hang wallpaper. If you have purchased pre-pasted paper, then you need to activate the paste by dunking it is water. There are special wallpaper trays that will help you with this process and will prevent your paper from becoming creased. If your wallpaper is not pre-pasted then you will need to apply paste and book the strips (fold paste to paste without creasing the paper). It is really important that you not crease the paper at this stage because those creases can be seen when the paper is hung. If you do happen to crease the paper, there is very little you can do to remove those creases.

Next, you hang your first strip. Use the plumb line to ensure that your paper is hanging straight. Use your sponge to remove any air bubbles and ensure that the paper is pressed firmly against the wall. Once it is up, you want to trim the top and bottom of the paper using a razor knife.

After you have this first strip up, you can move on to the next strips. With each piece, you want to make sure that you are sliding it into place so there is no overlap or gap between the two pieces. You also want to watch carefully for matching points. When you have three strips up, you can run over all of the seams with a seam roller, but don’t press too hard. This will cause excess glue to seep out and your paper will not stick as well to the wall. You should also have adhesive on hand to put on any spots that are sticking. You can also use this in the future if sections or seams start to lift.

Here are the top five things you should know before you began tiling:

1. Is Ceramic Tile Suitable for Your Space?

There are many advantages to ceramic tile. It is really durable and easy to clean. It isn’t the best option in some spaces though. During the winter months, ceramic tiles can really hold the cold, so you might not want to use them in a basement space. Certain types can be slippery, so if you are considering tiling for an entryway, you should go with a more slip-resistant variety.

2. Select the right Size, Style and Texture

Ceramic tiles come in all sorts of shapes – anywhere from one inch to two feet. The most common size tiles are between one and one and a half feet in size. Choosing the right size is actually easier than you might think. Just figure out the size of your room and then choose a size that suits it.

For example, if you have smaller room, a large tile would not be the best option because it would look like panels rather than tiles. A large tile is really best suited to larger spaces because they look less busy than smaller tiles do.

Currently, there are many styles of ceramic tiles to choose from. The easiest way to narrow down your options is decide on the type of look you are going for. It you want a rustic, natural look then you might want to consider a rugged, natural looking tile instead of a polished marble.

Choose a tile with the texture that will best suit your rooms theme. If you go for a rustic, natural looking tile, it will be rougher than a polished marble surface. When choosing a texture, you do need to take safety into consideration. The smoother that a surface is the more likely it is to be slippery when wet. If you have children or elderly people in your home, then a high-gloss tile is not the best option from a safety standpoint.

3. Choose an Appropriate Grout Color and Width

Grout is a cement mix that has color added to it to compliment your tile. Grout fills the space between tiles so you need to choose a grout width and a color that works in your space.

4. Installation Materials and Methods

There are different installation methods and a successful installation will really depend on the materials used and the energy and patience put into the project. You will want to make sure that you do the proper preparation and have all the materials you need at hand. You will need to make sure that you purchase a high quality bonding material, grout (as discussed above), a sealer and the right tools to get the project done.

Laying tile can be a bit tricky. You need to make sure that your cuts are correct and that the space around each tile is even. If you feel overwhelmed by the prospect of installing it yourself, then you might want to look at contracting the job out to a tiling professional.

5. Maintenance

Ceramic tile is one the easiest types of floors to clean and if you take care of them, they will maintain their shiny, new appearance for years to come. To clean tile, all you really need is water and any household cleaner product.

You can start by removing any dirt and dust with a broom or vacuum and then using a sponge or mop you can apply the mixture of water and cleaner to your tiles. It’s as simple as that! You will need to be cautious about dropping heavy objects on tile. If tiles split, crack or chip, it is impossible to replace just one tile. Odds are you’ll have to live with any cracks or chips until you’re ready to re-do the entire floor.

From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Don’t forget too that you’ll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

Five power tools that you can’t live without is a short list, but the work that they can do is a lot. Take a gander at the power tools, and how they help you with tasks around the house.

Here are five power tools that you cannot live without:

Cordless Screwdriver

A cordless screwdriver will help you for all of those small tasks that don’t need a lot of heavy power to do it. For example you’ll be able to use it for screwing furniture together, pre-drilling holes for hanging heavy objects on walls, or even to drill holes for picture frame hanging. One added benefit is that most have a reversible switch, which lets you back out the screw if you need to.

Cordless Drill

You’ll need a cordless drill, especially if you’ve got a larger number of holes to drill for a project, and it’s handy too for not having to change out your screws between the screwdriver and cordless drill. They are great for making pivot holes for screws. The typical size of bit for home use is a 38 in. Anything larger is considered commercial size grade.

Corded Drill

A corded drill is necessary when you’ve got a large number of holes to drill. This power tool just doesn’t have the power to drill through some material as a cordless drill does. Its limitation is the length of the cord, but extensions can be added safely to it.

Power Circular Saw

Power circular saws are much easier on the hands than a hand saw, and they cut much more efficiently too. Break out the power circular saw when you want to cut large 2×4s, or any sheets of lumber such as particle board. Usually this power tool can cut a depth of up to 3 in. thick board without having to cut twice. It’s a must have for any major home remodeling job.

Jig Saw

The jig saw will help you out of tough tight cuts. Intricate work like cutting around cabinet edges or anywhere a close fitting cut is necessary.

As you can see these power tools are the tools that you’ll need to get just about any job done around the house. Don’t think that those will be the only tools you’ll need for living in your house.

Here is a quick list of other necessities:

Caulking Gun

A caulking gun is used for a variety of projects around the house. If you want to put up a shower wall you’ll need the gun for adhesive. Other uses are for caulking around window frames and filler for holes.

Damaged Screw Remover

A very valuable tool for removing screws in which, the head has been damaged from a bad bit, or from an overzealous drill. It can be a safety issue too. Damaged screws can have rough edges and deep cuts can result.

Damaged Nut Remover

A typical application of this neat little tool is for example removing a rusted bolt when replacing a toilet. It’s good too for bicycle repair.

Wrenches

Different size wrenches are always good to have around the house.

Magnet

Long handled magnets on a stick are good for remodeling uses. Nails, nuts, bolts are easy to loose track of, and at times in very inconvenient places such as between floorboards or behind appliances. Make sure to get one. It might save you from an extra trip to replace hardware that’s lost.

Circuit Tester

Inexpensive circuit tester kits are useful for testing to see if wires are useful for any electrical need that you have.

Home ownership is a joy, but it’s more joyful when you’ve got the correct tools to upgrade or fix any problem that you might have. Be prepared and get the 5 power tools, and pick up the other extras, while you’re at it. You’ll breathe a sigh of relief, when something comes around that you need to have your power tools for.

The three most common kinds of indoor pipes:

• Copper
• Galvanized
• PVC

Now that you know that the main three types of indoor plumbing pipes are made of, you can analyze each type. Listed below are the advantages and disadvantages of Copper, Galvanized, and PVC. You can decide for yourself which is the best as you explore the advantages and disadvantages of each kind listed below.

Advantages and disadvantages of Copper

Copper is used most often in houses today, and is preferred by homeowners. The reason why, is because copper pipes increase the value of the home. Furthermore, they are safer than galvanized pipes because they do not contain led. Also, copper pipes are more form fitting than PCV pipe.

Copper pipes are smaller in diameter and can be used in tight places. Also, they are biostatic, which means that copper inhibits bacteria growth. Therefore the water is safer to drink. In addition, the insides of pipe to not have as much mineral buildup as galvanized pipes do. Also, they are more resistant to flame than PCV pipes. Copper pipes also are more prone to withstand earthquakes.

The disadvantage of Copper pipes is that they sometimes fail when water temperature is above 180 degrees. Furthermore, condensation often forms inside the pipes. When this condensation freezes, it blocks water flow. Another disadvantage is that coppers pipes cause water to have a slight metallic taste. Also, copper pipes are more costly to repair and install than PCV pipes.

Advantages and disadvantages of Galvanized

Galvanization is the process of coating a metal with zinc. Therefore, galvanized steel, and galvanized iron is more improved than the old steel and iron pipes. The zinc coating helps prevent corrosion and mineral deposits within the line. However, these pipes are better for larger construction projects. Sewage pluming, or and farm irrigation are some used for galvanized pipes.

The disadvantages of galvanized pipes are that they contain lead, and corrode quickly. The average life span of a galvanized pipeline is 40 years. Most homes today have replaced galvanized pipes with copper, because deposits build up in the inside of the water line, and cause extreme water flow blockage.

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC

PCV has many advantages over galvanized steel and copper. To begin with, it is the most lightweight of the three. This makes it easier to install. Also to mention, it is the least expensive of the three types. Also, it can withstand higher water pressure than the copper. Also, PCV is non-conductive, will not rust, and is not as conducive to condensation. In addition, PCV is less noisy at higher water pressure levels.

Another advantage is that PCV can be placed under concrete slab without reacting to the concrete. Moreover, it is self-insulating. That is why it can handle hotter temperature water.

Even though it can withstand hot water temperatures, it is less flame resistant. That is one of the biggest disadvantages of PCV. Additionally, the pipes usually only comes in ½ inch to 2 inch sizes. This makes them very inflexible. Along with that, the PCV joints are very bulky. As a result, PCV pipes do not fit as well in tight places as copper. Also, PCV contains volatile compounds which are harmful to the environment. Furthermore, some people have complained that PCV pipes cause water to have a slight plastic taste.

The above descriptions of advantages and disadvantages of each type of indoor plumbing material are not entirely exclusive. It is wise for any one who wants to replace the pipes in their home to do some research. Many factors contribute to making the choice of which pipe material to use in a plumbing project.

Also, a person needs to know that copper and galvanized steel can not be connected together. The reason why, is because the two together can cause a chemical reaction. It is better to have only one type of pipe in your home. Along with that, which ever pipe you choose to use, remember it is best to complete the entire project with one single piping material. The exception to this may be if you are adding a short pipe in the back of the sink or toilet. Other than that, it is better to use all one pipe.

If you want to be sure that you have the safest and best water pipes for your home, you can do further research. Also, you can call a trained plumber to make that decision for you. Additionally, he is inclined to know how to safely install a plumbing system within your home. Therefore, when in doubt, it is best to let the plumber handle the job for you.

Water based latex paints are good for using on the walls. Oil based paints are the other choice. Oil based paints are the best choice for painting trims, doors and areas of high traffic.

Using oil based paints

Oil based paints are sometimes a little more difficult to use than water based latex paint. Oil based paints are thicker than latex paint, so it will require different kinds of brushes and rollers. Also, when using oil based paints, it is a good idea to paint in a well ventilated area.

It does have a stronger odor. The good thing about oil based paint is that it can be bought at any paint store and tinted to almost any color. Oil based paints are also called solvents and made from a mixture of resin and oils.

When looking at oil based paints, it is important to remember that most of the time you will need to prime the area first. Oil based paints have a tendency to peel if the area is not primed properly. This can happen if the base coat is already oil based paint. When priming the area, you must clean the area first. Then you can apply a primer. Primer can be bought at any home improvement or paint store. Primer can be applied like spray paint or brushed on with a brush. If you are painting over a very dark color, or using a dark color with the new paint, you should consider having the primer tinted first.

If you get ready to paint and are not sure whether you are dealing with a wall or area that already has oil paint or latex, there is an easy way to tell. When water is applied to oil based paint, it will usually “bead up”. It will not soak in as it does with latex paint. When applying oil based paints, it has the tendency to bubble during painting.

Make sure that you never shake oil based paints. Stirring is recommended. Also when using oil based paint, try using only one coat of paint, instead of several. After applying the oil based paints to your project, it will take longer to dry than latex paint. Provide plenty of ventilation during the drying process.

It is also important to remember that when using oil based paints, that they are considered toxic and hazardous waste. Caution should be used when disposing of oil based paints.

Several projects that will benefit from using oil based paint:

Trim When painting indoor trim, such as bead board, window trim, crown molding, chair rails and trim around doors, oil based paints are generally used. This is because oil based paints can withstand more wear and tear than latex paints. As a general rule, oil based paints are also easier to clean than latex paint.

Doors Indoor doors are usually painted with oil based paints. It is very simple to clean fingerprints, smudges and dirt off of doors when painted with oil based paint. An outside door is often painted using oil based paints, as well.

Decorating projects If you are working in small projects, such as painting shelves or raw wood, oil based paints can be a good option. Proper preparation is required. Raw wood will need to be sanded and primed before using oil based paints. Remember that primer should be dried thoroughly before using any oil based paints. This will give you better coverage.

Exterior Some projects outside can be good for using oil based paints. Oil based paints are perfect for trims, such as around windows, and other trim around the outside of the house.

Metal Projects that are made out of metal can also benefit from oil based paints. It is important to remember that oil based paints should never be applied directly to fresh masonry or on iron. As with any projects, proper prepping and primer will be required.

Oil based paints can be a good choice for many projects because it is often longer lasting and easy to clean. Proper preparation is always needed when painting with oil paints.

Types of doors:

There are three types of doors; entry doors, interior doors, and combination stormscreen doors. The five steps below describe the technique for replacing an entry door. If you can master replacement of an entry door, replacing most interior doors is actually a simplified version of that process, as the locks are typically simpler or nonexistent.

Replacement of combination stormscreen doors can follow the same process as that of entry doors, or it can become more complicated. If you are unsure about the process for installing a combination stormscreen door, check your manufacturer’s information for additional instructions or speak with a representative of the manufacturer or store that sold you the door.

Here are five steps to a brand new door:

Remove the old door

To remove the old door, open it and wedge under the outer corner to take weight off the hinges. Once the door has been removed, set it aside to use as a pattern in trimming the new door unless it is seriously warped or damaged.

To remove the door, follow one of the two options below:

A popular method for hanging doors is the use of loose-pin hinges. With loose-pin hinges, half the hinge attaches to the door and the other half to the doorframe. Both halves are held together by a pin. If this is the type of hinge you’re dealing with, remove the pin by tapping it up and completely pulling it out. Start with the bottom hinge and work your way up. Once the hinges have been removed, you can take the door off the frame.

In some older homes, a different type of hinge may be used or the pin cannot easily be removed because it has been covered by layers of paint. In this case, unscrew the hinges from the doorframe (still working from bottom to top) and remove the door.

Remove hinge leaves

Remove the hinge leaves from the door and the frame. You can choose to either reuse the original hinges or hang new ones. If you reuse the original ones, you can buff them with sandpaper and spray them with a clear protective coating. For new hinges, simply insure that they are the same size as the old ones.

Once you have gotten the hinges in the shape you want them, install the new hinge leaves on the door frame. Be sure your screws are long enough to pierce both the frame and the stud-wall framing. This is an extra security measure.

Trim new door

If possible, use the original door as a pattern for the new door. Alight the top and side edges and see whether the new door needs to be cut down along the bottom. If you cannot use the old door as a pattern, measure the door opening and allow an 18 bottom clearance and 116 top and side clearance. If the door opens over carpet, increase the bottom clearance to 34 or more. Mark the appropriate dimensions on the new door.

Trim the bottom of the new door with a fine-toothed saw. Alternatively you can work from the corners to the center of the bottom edge with a block plane. Also use a jack plane for edge trimming if necessary. To prevent binding when the new door is opened, bevel the latch edge inward.

Prepare new door for hinges

The first step in preparing the new door for the hinges is to create the new mortises, which are carved or routed-out depressions where the hinge blades are placed, which keeps the surface even. Again using the old door for a pattern, mark hinge mortise locations. If you choose not to pattern after the old door, stick the new door in the opening and wedge it, 18 from the bottom. Mark the hinge locations on the door.

Next, set the new door on its latch edge. Use a square and pencil or knife to draw a line across the door edge at each hinge location. Outline the new hinge on the door by using the hinge leaf as a template.

Score marked edges for the hinge mortises with a wood chisel. Do not cut deeper than hinge leaf thickness. Angle the same chisel with beveled edge downward. Make several cuts in the scored area, again to the depth of the hinge leaf. Remove wood chips with a chisel. Insert the hinge leaf to double check fit, but do not affix it to the door.

Typically, doors taller than six feet require three hinges for weight distribution. Place the middle hinge halfway between the top and bottom hinges.

Coat door edges with wood sealant. Use wood screws to attach hinge leaves to the new door.

Hang new door

Placing the newly sealed door in the frame, insert the top and bottom pins. If the fit is acceptable, close the door and mark where the middle hinge falls on the door frame. If the old door had a middle hinge, the best case scenario would involve the new middle hinge falling in exactly the same place, necessitating no work on your part.

If the middle hinge falls differently on the new door, take down the door by removing the bottom hinge pin and then the top. Use the hinge leaf as a template to outline the middle hinge’s location on the door frame. Cut the mortise in the same process used for door mortises. Attach the middle hinge to the door frame.

Set the door in place and insert the hinge pins, working top to bottom.

Another project for another day is installing a new lockset. For now, open your new door and go out and celebrate your accomplishment!

Here are three most basic things you need to know about mudding drywall:

1. Know Your Compounds and Your Tools

Preparation is the key in anything, particularly in home improvement projects. Take the time to familiarize yourself with products and techniques before you begin a project will save time down the road and will also result in a better-finished project.

Jointing compound comes in both a powder and pre-mixed form. There are also different textures. Taping compound is coarse and should be used for the initial taping layer. Topping compound is much thinner and smoother than taping compound and should be used for finishing the surface. There is also all-purpose joint compound on the market, which is halfway between taping and topping compound in terms of both texture and thickness.

To apply the mud, you should be using taping knives. These tools come in different lengths and you should use one that is slightly longer than the previous one for each new layer.

At this stage, you also want to make sure that all of your nails and screws are properly sunk in and that none of them are sticking out. You check this by running a taping knife along the edges and seams. If you feel or hear anything against the metal, then you need to go back and sink the nail or screw further into the drywall.

2. Follow the Proper Steps

Mudding drywall is a four-step, four-day process. You need to make sure that you allow at least twenty-four hours of drying time between each application of compound.

-You start with a taping layer. At this stage, you apply compound and then insert paper-jointing tape into the joins and then smooth with more compound. You also need to cover up all of the nail and screws with compound (ensuring first, of course, that they are properly sunk in). After completing the taping layer, your surfaces should be all filled and everything should be leveled.

-The next step is to apply two layers of compound that will smooth out your surfaces. With each application you’ll want to use a taping knife that is one or two inches longer than the previous one. For the second and third coat, you’ll want to use a taping knife that is anywhere from seven inches to a foot long.

You want to try and apply the compound on the joint and then smooth it by stroking each side and then one last stroke right down the middle.

It can be tricky to apply this compound. You’ll need to apply the mud in different thicknesses and with different pressure in different spots. When doing the side strokes, you want to apply more pressure to the outside of the knife, whereas when you do the center stroke, you’ll want to keep the pressure evenly distributed. This will take a bit of practice and a lot of patience.

-The final coat is a finishing coat. This is where you will have to be most fussy to ensure a smooth finished product. Start by scraping a wide taping knife over the joints to ensure that all ridges and bumps are removed.

-You can thin out the compound for this last stage. Some people do and some people don’t – it is just a matter of personal preference.

3. Have a Little Patience

When mudding drywall, the key is patience and consistency. Though you may be eager to get through this stage and on to the priming and painting, this stage is crucial and will make all the difference in terms of the appearance of your finished walls. You need to make sure that you leave the proper amount of drying time between coats.

You also want to take the time to check for bumps and ridges between coats and then sand the room after your final coat. This sanding will smooth out any remaining little ridges. This can be a messy process so make sure you lay down plastic to seal off the room and also wear protective gear to eliminate the threat of eye and respiratory irritation.